A year ago, I had the best chicken of my life at The NoMad. Was it because these chickens were delivered daily from a farm in Pennsylvania? Was it because there was foie gras stuffed under the skin? Or maybe it was the tantalizing aroma of black truffles found in both the stuffing and the accompanying potato puree. It was a combination of all these factors that made me fall in love with chicken again.

Julia and Davis made a reservation and I brought my friend Anne. The whole point of the dinner was to try the chicken that had every blog and food magazine raving. To start, the server brought us a warm rustic flatbread with grilled leeks and gruyere fresh from the oven, much better than the usual stale basket of bread served at most restaurants.